Scoping the Enfield No. 4:
Cad Technik No-Gunsmith Scope Mount

In my opinion the Enfield No. 4 is one of the finest military bolt action rifles ever produced and on my top five list for accuracy. If I shoot a No. 4 with open micrometer adjustable sights then I feel that I already have a definitive edge over other mil-surp rifles as the sights are just downright exceptional.

To add a scope is almost unnecessary.

I would rather poke out one of my eyes than drill and tap or permanently modify one of my No. 4s. When I saw the no-gunsmith, Cad Technik scope mount in the Brownells catalog. I thought - "heck, that fits the bill."

I really like the looks of the No. 4 Mk 1 (T) sniper rifles and this mount somewhat duplicates the look and feel of the mounts used.

FIGURE 1 Side View of Mount

Brownells Product Description

No gunsmithing required to put a scope on that Enfield. Attaches solidly to the receiver using the ejector and safety screws. Quick detachable, Weaver-style base is machined to extremely close tolerances for precise return to zero. Installation requires no bolt modification or rear sight removal. Leveling adjustments adapt mount to a wide range of receivers; windage adjustments help keep your scope reticle in the center of its range.

SPECS: Aluminum, black, matte finish. Savage-built rifles and others using a flat ejector spring require block-style spring. 3.9" (10cm) long.


Enfield Scope Mount $79.95 + S&H

Manufacturer's Product Description

  • Mechanical windage adjustment;

  • Scope leveling system;

  • Remove scope and scope rings without loss of zero;

  • Removal of micrometer sight not required;

  • Shoot with a scope without altering your rifle.

FIGURE 2 Top View of Mount

FIGURE 3

Manufacturer Supplied Instructions

Remove the bolt.

FIGURE 4

Manufacturer Supplied Instructions

Place rifle on its side with the ejector screw and safety facing up. Remove the ejector screw

FIGURE 5

Manufacturer Supplied Instructions

Remove the safety screw without removing the safety mechanism. Some rifle, most notably Savage made rifles, have a flat safety spring instead of the more standard block style. The flat safety spring must be changed to the block style for proper safe operation of scope mount.

FIGURE 6 Rear Sight Removed.

I discovered that after I followed the instructions literally and tried to reinsert the bolt, I could not because the scope mount held the rear sight down. It is necessary to lift the rear sight to a complete vertical position to remove or insert the bolt. No matter what I tried I could not insert or remove the bolt if I left the rear sight in installed. I ended up removing the mount and removing the rear sight. Then I replaced the mount and was able to proceed. I think if you plan on leaving the mount on the rifle for a period of time and want to clean it without removing the scope, removing the rear sight is the best approach.

Conclusion: The claim that the rear sight does not have to be removed to install the mount is very true, but good luck getting the bolt in or out without lifting the rear sight.

This is not a bad thing as the rear sight is easy to remove. The sight is held in place by a retaining pin that is secured by an even smaller pin. The pin holding the rear sights retaining pin is actually easy to remove if you use a good drift punch and tap it upward until it can be pulled out with a pair of locking pliers. Reinstalling the pin is easier still as all you do is tap it back into place.

Note: Tension of the rear sight is supplied by a plunger and spring that will fly out if you do not gradually lift the sight and allow the spring to expand slowly.

FIGURE 7 All of the Removed Parts Safely Stored in a Zip-Lock Bag

FIGURE 8 Tightening the New Ejector Screw

Manufacturer Supplied Instructions

Attach the mount base using the new ejector screw and the new safety screw. The supplied neoprene washer is for the safety screw.
The instructions don't say how to install the neoprene washer. I examined everything and made the assumption it would work best between the mount and the safety spring. This way the safety could move freely without binding on the metal mount.

FIGURE 9

FIGURE 10

Manufacturer Supplied Instructions

Install bolt and check for free and normal range of motion for the bolt. Chamber and eject a round to verify that the ejector screw is set properly.
There are no more instructions supplied with the mount. I think it would be nice if they supplied steps for adjusting the "mechanical windage" and "scope leveling" features. I found I had to figure this one out through trial and error. The two screws on top of the weaver rail will allow for raising and lowering the front and back of the rail as well as some horizontal movement.

Note: Make sure you really tighten/lock down the screws on the rail once you have them set. It is very difficult and a pain to find out you have to completely remove the scope to retighten them if you have overlooked this or forgotten, as I will describe later in the article.

The only negative I found with the mount is the limited instructions supplied.

FIGURE 11 Installing Front Scope Ring

FIGURE 12 Installing Rear Scope Ring

FIGURE 13 Installing Scope

FIGURE 14 Completed Job

The mount is very solid and all in all it is a very attractive setup. I installed a standard Simmons 3x9 variable power scope with pair of Butler Creek Flip-Open Scope Covers.

FIGURE 15

I had some trouble zeroing in the scope when I first got to the range. First the windage was bottomed out and could not move any further to the left. I fiddled around with the adjustments on the mount and it started to come in and I was printing on paper. Then all of a sudden I could not even hit the target. When I touched the scope I discovered that one of the two adjustment, hex screws on the weaver rail had come completely loose and the scope was freely moving from right to left and back again. I had to completely disassemble the rig and retighten everything back down. It was pretty warm outside and I was getting a little warm inside because of my stupidity. I did not blame the mount, just my own fault for overlooking tightening the two screws on the rail during assembly. Once I had accomplished this and reassembled everything, I was back in the running and punching holes in the paper.

Note: Make sure you take plenty of loaded cartridges with you to the range when sighting in a new scope mount and scope. By the time I had discovered my mistake I had already fired off twenty rounds.

FIGURE 16 Dialing in the Scope

I was finally able to get the windage set and was close on the elevation at 50 yards, so I moved the target out to 100. When sighting in a new scope, I start at closer distances and then gradually move it out in range as I dial in the settings.

Another trick I use to sight in a scope is to pick a dirt clod on the earthen burm behind the target. When I fire, I will see the dirt kicked up where the bullet impacts easily through the scope. Then I make gradual adjustments until I feel comfortable moving to the paper.

Important Safety Note: Don't aim at a rock. If you actually hit it, it could cause the bullet to be deflected and ricochet in an unsafe direction. The burm is designed to absorb your shots and is safe to aim at.

One other trick is kind of a poor man's bore sighting exercise. In a semi-dark room, remove the bolt of the rifle and take a Mini-Maglite and insert it up against the barrel's chamber inside the receiver. The Maglite produces a very intense, concentrated, and bright beam of light that is almost laser like but much less in cost. Project the light emitted from the bore onto the wall. View the lighted spot on the wall through the scope and adjust the windage until it is over the center of the lit circle. This will more times than not bring you very close and cut down the amount of rounds required to sight the scope in at the range.

FIGURE 17 - 5 Shots at 100 yards

I shot another forty rounds at 100 yards and was very pleased with my shooting. Once I dialed in the elevation I was able to produce some impressive groups. My best is displayed in figure 17. I would say that at 100 yards the accuracy of the scoped No. 4 was only fairly better than the micrometer aperture sights found on my rifle. I usually don't shoot much over 100 yards but feel inclined to give a try later out at a distance of 300 yards with the scope installed. I feel this will really test out the rig as I cannot shoot very accurately out at those distances.

I am very pleased with the mount and my shooting with the scoped No. 4.

FIGURE 18

 

Ethics and Principles of Making Permanent Modifications to Mil-surp Firearms

 
Figure 18 shows my No. 4 after removing the scope and mount. My daughter timed me. A total of five minutes and my No. 4 was back in its original condition and the Cad Technik no-gunsmith scope mount was packed away safely. I never would have attached the mount to the rifle to begin with if I could not put the rifle back into its intended configuration. Some rifles I don't feel a bit guilty mucking around with them; something like a Mosin m44 carbine or a Yugo 24/47 Mauser where there are thousands upon thousands available for lunch money and I have a half a dozen to begin with. But take an Enfield No.4, a Krag, a Swede, or a Garand, and I would feel uneasy and down right evil drilling and tapping into them. I just recently picked up a Norwegian Krag and I have got to tell you that it has the most beautiful wood stock that I have ever seen in my entire life on anything and I include furniture in my comparison. They really knew how to build rifles back then! I would die before I let someone touch it. The Krags are so damned difficult to find today and the ones you do find are expensive as hell. The reason is because so many were sporterized into hunting rifles in the early part of the twentieth century.

I am not preaching to you that you should never modify your rifles. Heck, they are your firearms and you can do what ever you like with them. That is the beauty of living in America: Freedom.

Just remember that some rifles can produce an almost religious experience. Your endorphins flow when you work the bolt, feel the silky smoothness of the wood stock, contemplate the history, or just see how well they shoot at the range. If you own even one of these rifles then you know exactly what I mean. These are the keepers. The ones that you leave exactly the way you find them, never to change anything. They are the ones that have so much history you can actually smell it. As James Earl Jones, as Terence Mann, in Field of Dreams said, “The memories will be so thick they'll have to brush them away from their faces.”

That is what I am talking about.

jlm;)


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