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| Article by
Jamie Mangrum |
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I want a PU sniper
rifle like the ones carried by Soviet troops in
WWII and I want one in a real bad way. Heck, I
don't even care if it is original or a fake. One
avenue I have been exploring is to build one. So
as a result I have been looking for a PU scope
to build out a Mosin Nagant sniper rifle. The
cheapest I have found one is for around $295 for
the scope and mount. Plus I would still
have to purchase a bent bolt handle to complete
the project. By the time I would be done the
mount, scope, and bolt (+ Tax & Shipping
&Handling) would cost me just this side of $400. |
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Front Side of Mount |
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The problem is that I cannot
see myself spending three to four times what I
paid for a rifle to mount a scope on it. After I built up a Yugo Mauser sniper
rifle using a POSP scope a reader sent me an
email saying - "Hey, you know Interordnance also
makes a POSP mount for the Mosin, don't you?" All right! I already had the 4x
POSP scope. Sure enough - they do offer a
mount for under $20. As usual my compulsive
disorder took hold of my diminishing ability to
reason and before I knew it I was already
receiving an email receipt in my inbox for my
recent purchase. |
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Back Side of Mount |
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POSP Russian Scope Mount
for Mosin Rifles
InterOrdnance of America
3305 Westwood Industrial Dr
Monroe, NC 28110
PH#
(704) 225-8843
Email:
research@interordnance.com
Web Page:
http://www.interordnance.com/ Product Featured:
http://www.interordnance.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=INTERORDNANCE.com&Product_Code=SCOP0016
Price: $19.95 + S&H |
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Note - 01/12/2006 |
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As of 01/12/2006 I have noticed that Interordnance increased the
price on the mount to $49.95. |
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The reticule on the
scope I own is
easy enough to use and the range finder works
pretty well for such a simple system. If you
look at figure 4 in the lower left hand corner you will
see a curved measurement scale. At the bottom of
the scale you will see a graduated flat line
with the number 1.8 to the far right. The number
represents 1.8 meters. 1.8 meters (5 foot 10/11
inches) is the height of an average man. If you
were looking through the scope at an average height man at a
distance of 200 meters and positioned the range
finder scale over him, his feet should touch the
bottom flat line and the top of his head will
touch the number 2 on the curved scale. |
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You get 200 meters by taking the number 2 from the scale
and multiplying it by 100. As the man moves away from
you and the distance increases, his image will become
smaller. Where ever the top of his head intersects the
curved line that is the number you take and multiply by
100. So if the top of his head touched between the 6 and
the 4 then he would be standing about 500 (5 x 100)
meters away from you. You would then be able to choose
what inverted "V" to place on the target depending on
the ammo and load you are shooting. |
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Kalinka Enterprises, LLC
254 Junco Circle
Longs, SC 29568, USA
Email: info@kalinkaoptics.com
Web Page:
http://www.kalinkaoptics.com
Product Featured:
http://www.kalinkaoptics.com/cgi-bin/kowstore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=GSPOSP424SVD1
Price: $109 + S&H |
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Not being a person who only goes half way I started to
look for a sniper style bent bolt handle. I have
seen them on the internet and in Shotgun news
for less than $60.
I found the bolt handle
pictured in figure 5 on eBay and emailed Mike Battersby (the
bolt's maker) with
a couple of questions:
I plan on using this in an article on
Surplusrifle.com. It will be installed with a
POSP scope. Do you think there will be any
clearance problem? Also, do you regularly have
your bolts listed so I can point the article to
you so folks can buy?
Let me know and I will eBay Buy It Now
Jamie
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Mike responded with:
My handles will clear PU or PEM scopes, so
as long as the POSP is no lower than that you
won't have a problem. I list regularly on eBay
and Auction Arms and I have a website:
http://www.mosinparts.com. I can't handle a
huge volume, but two or three a week is no
problem. I modify customer's handles too so that
they can keep their serial numbered handle. |
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Mosinparts
LLC c/o
Mike Battersby
1032 Orchard Rd.
Adrian, MI 49221
Email:
mbattersby@mosinparts.com
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| Web Page:
http://www.mosinparts.com Product
Featured:
http://www.mosinparts.com/My_Homepage_Files/Page1.html
To build them I cut original straight bolt
bodies and TIG weld in a section of bent steel.
I then file and polish it until the welds don't
show. Different styles also available: Swept
back, or extra long handle. I can also modify or
repair your serial numbered bolt body.
- Purchase price $50.00
- Modify your bolt body $40.00
- $10 exchange for your original bolt body
- Priority Mail anywhere in the
continental U.S. $3.85
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The bolt that I promptly received was as excellent as
described. One thing that is a little different about
Mike's bolt handles is they extend out a little further
than the original sniper bolt handle but still look just
like the original. You ask yourself -
"What difference does this make?"
It means you don't
have to inlet (cut) the stock so the bolt handle fits properly.
I am an oaf when it comes to woodworking. You
should see me with a rotary tool. I look like a scene
right out of a Pink Panther movie. Any cut into a stock
I can avoid - the better.
So the total dollars spent on this project is: |
| Item |
Price |
| POSP Scope |
$109 |
| Scope Mount |
$20 |
| Bolt |
$50 |
| Misc Tools/Tax/S&H |
$20 |
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Total |
$199 |
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$199 total project cost is not too bad when you consider
that the scope can be quickly removed and used on any
rifle you install or already installed a POSP mount on.
This would include a Mauser, AK, or SKS. Also the drill
bit and tap can be used on other projects as well. |
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The mount comes with three hex screws. It is good to
know what size drill bit and tap you need. There are no
supplied instructions that come with the mount. I found that if
you go to Home Depot they have this great steel plate/panel in
the screw and fastener isle (at least they did at two
that I have visited). The panel helps you
determine what size screw and thread you have. The three
screws that came with the mount fit
perfectly in the 10-32 hole and fit like a charm. I
tried the next size larger hole and it was too loose. I tried the
next size smaller hole and it was too tight. I picked up a
Hansen 10-32NF Tap and #21 Drill Bit combo
(pictured above) for the
job. |
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I installed the mount 1 1/2 inches
back from the front of the receiver. |
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Placing the mount is the task in the project
where you want to take your time and make
certain that it is level with the lines of the
receiver/barrel and sits perpendicular to the
side of the receiver. Basically use a level and
your eye sight to find the best place. You do
not want to drill additional or unnecessary
holes in your rifle. Remember you could take the
parts to a gunsmith if you do not feel
comfortable making this alteration. |
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I found that it was difficult
to hold the mount on while I
attempted to drill. I tried all my bag of tricks
including large rubber bands. Any clamp I
installed blocked the motion of the drill press.
I would rate this project high on the skill
level for difficulty. I was able to clamp the
mount in place at the rear end of the mount and
then was able to drill and tap the front hole.
One I installed the front screw I removed the
clamp and used the screw to hold the mount in
place while I drilled and tapped the next two holes. |
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The 10-32 tap bit is what you
use to cut threads in the receiver's drilled
holes. You will have to purchase a tap handle
similar to the one shown in figure 9. The prices
of a tap handle ranges from $5 and up depending
on the quality. Oddly enough I have found the
inexpensive $5 handle to work best for me. |
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The MIT machinist
reference describes tapping as: |
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A tap has
cutting edges to cut the threads and straight flutes to allow chips
to be expelled. The end of the tap is tapered slightly to help the
tap get started. Taps are hard and brittle so you should be careful
working with them (try not to drop them or force them into a hole
when stuck). Be sure that the hole you drilled is the correct size
for the tap you're using or it may break inside.
Put the tap in place and apply moderate pressure as you turn the
tap. It's good practice to back the tap up a bit for every quarter
turn of thread you cut.
Copyright © 2001 by Massachusetts Institute
of Technology (MIT).
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Next, I tightened the three
screws. I did not use Loctite at this point yet
because I wanted to make any adjustments needed
at a later time. |
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I installed the action into the stock and found I would
need to inlet a small amount of wood for the mount to
fit properly. I marked off the sides with a cutting
blade. |
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I used a rotary tool cutting disc and cut the wood out a
little bit at a time until the mount fit snuggly. Figure
12 shows the amount of wood I removed. |
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Last I installed the new bolt handle and scope and was
ready to go. Figure 13 shows the completed project from
the right side. |
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I took the rifle to the range and also took my tools in
case I needed to make any adjustments or tighten
anything down. I found once I placed holes on the paper
target that my windage adjustment has bottomed out and I
was still not centered. I was too far to the right. I
made shim washers using a soda can and cutting snips. I
got this idea from Mark Trope. I placed the shims one
layer at a time between the mount and the receiver. I
would then tighten and reassemble everything and would
fire some test shots. I ended up placing three shims
(layers) thick until the scope was placing bullets in
the center of the target and I had left and right
windage adjustment capability available to me. I was
within proper specifications. I applied Loctite to the
screws and tightened everything down snuggly. |
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I took a leather cheek pad to
install on the stock if I could not get a proper
cheek weld. Unlike the Mauser project I
completed with the same scope I found the Mosin
Nagant stock provided a very adequate weld and
the leather cheek pad was not necessary for me.
This may be different for you. I guess I finally
benefit from having chubby cheeks. Figure
15 shows how the new bolt handle easily clears
the scope scope. |
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I used late 1970's Soviet made
surplus ammo for the testing. Figure 16 shows my
best and typical 100 yard 5 shot grouping. The
1891/30 I was shooting had a couple
modifications to it already and it was a great
shooter to begin with. I had
modified the front sight so I could adjust
for elevation. I also had a great
Mojo micro click sight installed as the rear
sight. I like the fact also the I can remove the
scope or leave it on and still use the open
sights.
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If my shoulder and ammo did not give way I could
shoot all day long with this setup. It is
accurate, looks great, and is a blast to shoot. |
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Adobe PDF
Downloadable Version of Article |
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| Article by
Jamie Mangrum |
