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A look around my reloading bench discloses an embarrassingly large amount of tools.  True, I’ve been reloading for about a ¼ century, and, one tends to amass the tools of the trade over time.  My initial investment in reloading tools was a kit.  One of the tools in that kit is a fixed cavity powder measure with replaceable rotors.  I vividly recall how much I wanted an adjustable power measure about a year after I took up reloading.  At that time I might as well have been wishing for the winning lottery numbers! 

At last count, I have 5 adjustable powder measures.  Only one of them was purchased new, the rest were acquired used, and good bargains every one!  Do I need or use all 5 of them all the time?  No, of course not.  I do have a couple of them set aside for specific purposes.  One (an RCBS) is used only to dispense PSB in cast bullet rifle loads.   A Redding, the most repeatable and accurate measure I own, is set up for dispensing loads of IMR 4064 for match shooting.   With the other 3, I make a decision which measure to use based on application.  

Sometimes though, tool selection is a “no-brainer”.  For some jobs I automatically reach for the same tool; no matter what else I have available.  The LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die and the LEE Decapping Die are two such tools.  I find both of them indispensable.

LEE DECAPPING DIE

Let’s look at the LEE Decapping Die first. Whenever I get back from the range, I like to clean cases in the tumbler before resizing.  It doesn’t matter whether I’m going to neck size or full length resize the cases, I still tumble them first.  However, it pays to decap (remove old primers) prior to tumbling.  With the old primer removed, the tumbling media can work its way into the primer pocket and remove at least some of the residue.  Additionally, tumbling media will pass thru the flash hole, cleaning it too.  If old primers are left in the pocket, tumbling media will pack in the pocket and flash hole. That media winds up being wasted (and can make a mess on certain brands of presses) as the cases are decapped by the combination decapper/expander unit in a full length resizer die, or the combination decapper/mandrel unit in a collet die.

Lee Decapping Die

Lee Decapping Die

Collet at top of LEE Decapping Die retains decapping rod

The LEE Decapping Die isn’t really a “die” in strictest sense of the word.  The tool body is merely a 7/8-14 threaded tube designed to hold the decapping rod/pin assembly.  The decapping rod/pin assembly is pressed together, and held in the top of the die by a collet.  The collet holds the decapping rod/pin assembly by friction.                                             

In most other brands of dies (not LEE) the rod is threaded into the top of the die body.  If a berdan case accidentally gets in a batch of cases, the pin will break and /or the rod will bend.  Should a berdan case accidentally get in a batch of boxer-primed brass being deprimed in a LEE Decapping Die, the decapping pin won’t break!  The decapping rod/pin assembly will just get pushed up thru the collet.  If this happens, simply loosen the collet with a ½ inch or 13mm wrench, reposition the decapping rod/pin assembly, and retighten the collet.  A LEE Decapping Die is a tool every man should have on his bench.  The LEE Decapping Die can be ordered from any web based or catalog supplier of reloading tools for about $10.00 + shipping. 

LEE CASE MOUTH FLARING DIE

The LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die is a very unique application for a reloading tool, and makes one wonder, “Why did it take so long for someone to think of designing a tool in this manner?”

Reloading a straight walled cartridge case; like the 45ACP or .357 Magnum, etc. requires a 3-die set.  The first die resizes (reduces) the outer case walls.  The second die flares the mouth.  The case mouth must be flared so a new bullet can be started into the case.  Without the case mouth being flared, the heel of the bullet would catch on the case mouth, crushing the case mouth.   OK, what about bottleneck cases like the 30/06, 8X57, 7.62 NATO, 762X54R etc?  They generally require a 2-die set.                                                              

I say generally because the die makers assume reloaders of bottleneck cases will be loading jacketed bullets.   Of course the die makers know some will be using cast bullets.  Against that purpose; most (but certainly not all) die makers also produce a case mouth flaring die, more on that later.                                                                                             

The reason a jacketed bullet doesn’t require a flaring die is; the expander ball passes thru the case neck as the case is withdrawn from the FL die.  The expander ball brings the internal size of the case neck up to .001 below the size of the jacketed bullet.   The jacketed bullet expands the case neck the last .001, and that is enough bullet grip for proper ignition, and complete burning of a normal powder charge.  However, what if the reloader wants to use cast bullets, or is concerned the sides of the jacketed bullet may be scraped by the case mouth during the seating process?

Cast bullets are much softer then jacketed.  The hardest cast bullet will have a Brinell hardness of 30; most are softer.  Jacketed bullets have a Brinell hardness of 100.  Attempting to seat a cast bullet in an un-flared case neck will damage the bullet.

Boat tail jacketed bullets will seat easily in an un-flared case neck, however, the parallel sides of the bullet can still be scrapped.  Flat base bullets can get a lot of scrapping on the sides.  De-burring the case mouth with tools for such purposes will help keep bullet damage to a minimum.  However, excessive de-burring can weaken case mouths.  

Most major reloading tool manufacturers have cataloged a flaring die for decades.  Traditionally designed flaring dies all seem to have two features.  They are caliber specific, and are of rigid construction.  Additionally, one company makes flaring dies that are specified for either “long” or “short” cartridges within a caliber family.  These dies work OK, but a new flaring die must be acquired for each caliber family.  Being rigidity constructed, they can flare a case mouth off center if the press isn’t in perfect axial alignment.   

Adjustment piece, small flaring plug, large flaring plug, die body

Small flaring plug & large flaring plug

LEE case mouth flaring die in top of press

Ready to flare a piece of brass

Unflared piece of brass, notice the bullet will not start into the case mouth

Flared piece of brass, notice the bullet will now start into the case mouth

The LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die is a departure from traditional thinking and design.  First, it is truly a “universal” die.  Two flaring “plugs” are included, one large, one small.  Between them, all calibers are covered.  The plugs can float a bit once installed in the die body.  Since they float, they will self-center in a case mouth; making sure both sides of the case mouth flare evenly.  

It matters not whether one is flaring 7.62 NATO cases or 300 Winchester Magnum cases, there is plenty of adjustment in the LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die body.  This one die covers all case lengths.                                                                                                                              

Need to switch flaring plugs?  It’s the work of a minute to switch from flaring .38 Specials to flaring 45/70’s!   The LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die can be ordered from any web based or catalog supplier of reloading tools for about $10.00 + shipping. 

The LEE Case Mouth Flaring Die and LEE Decapping Die are two tools that I find indispensable.  They should be on every reloader’s bench. 

DECAPPING BRASS WITH “LIVE” PRIMERS

Breaking down & de-priming corrosive ammo requires these items.

We recently received an email requesting information on decapping brass cases that contain live primers.  The reader had acquired a batch of boxer-primed Mil-Surp ammunition.  However, the boxer primers in that ammunition were corrosive.  He didn’t want to fire the corrosive primed ammunition in his rifle.

Boxer / corrosive primed Korean Mil-Surp ammo

Red around the primer is a lacquer paint sealer

There is Korean Mil-Surp ammo on the market right now.  Some of it is in cardboard boxes.  Much of it is in M-1 clips.  This ammo is good stuff, however, it is corrosive primed.   For this demonstration, I acquired a clip of Korean Mil-Surp 30/06 ammo.

Round seated in the bullet puller

Powder, bullet (asphalt sealer on bullet) brass

Asphalt sealer on two different Mil-Surp bullets

Spray disk brake cleaner on an old sock to remove asphalt sealer on bullets

A quick rub with solvent soaked sock melts asphalt sealer on bullets

Cotton tipped applicator soaked in solvent will clean inside case necks

Inside of case neck has this much asphalt sealer

Removing live, corrosive primers is a simple procedure.  First, the bullet and powder must be removed.  Bullets can be removed with either a kinetic, or a press mounted bullet puller.  Mil-Surp ammunition usually has some type of sealer between the bullet and case mouth.  Often, it is a black asphalt mixture; sometimes it is a lacquer seal.  If using a kinetic bullet puller, first you’ll want to seat the bullet a few thousands deeper in the case with the seating die installed in your press prior to attempting removal.  Seating the bullet a few thousands deeper will break the seal between the bullet and case mouth, allowing the kinetic puller to remove the bullet and powder.

Next, the reloader must decide if the original powder is to be reused.  If not, it must be properly disposed of.  Disposal is easy.  Flush it down the commode, or, alternately, scatter it in the grass & bushes.  Powder is loaded with nitrates; it’s fine fertilizer!

If the original powder and bullets are to be reused, then collect the powder from 10 cartridges and weigh it all together.  Divide by 10 and you will know the weight of the powder in one cartridge.  However, since a primer different from the original will be used, reduce the powder charge by at least one grain before refilling the brass and reseating the bullets. 

The empty, corrosive-primed cases can be stood up in a case-loading block, or if the case head size is the size of the 30/06, 8X57, 7.62 NATO etc, a discarded plastic ammo tray of the type used for 45ACP ammo will work. 

WD-40 will deactivate the corrosive priming compound

(Let it soak for 24 hours)

Spray WD-40 or a similar spray type lubricant down in the open case mouths.  Use one of those long, thin tubes attached to the spray can’s nozzle to get the lube down into the flash hole and to the priming compound.   Set the tray aside for 24 hours.  After 24 hours the priming compound should be rendered inert by the oil.

Play it safe!  Face shield (or shooting glasses) and earmuffs must be donned prior to removing old primers

Ready to decap cases with Lee decapping die

Ram raised, primer removed

Notice WD-40 in primer pocket, this will be removed in the next step.

Ideally, the primers should be removed with a decapping die.  A decapping die will give a more sensitive feel as the primers are removed.  However, a full-length resizing die is OK.   Install either a decapping die or a full-length sizing die in your press.  If using a full-length sizing die, lube the cases.  Put on your earmuffs and shooting glasses or a face shield.  Perform this operation by yourself.  You don’t want anyone else in the room.  Now, s-l-o-w-l-y & g-e-n-t-l-y decap the cases.  If anyone missed that, I’ll say it again, nice & loud:  S-L-O-W-L-Y & G-E-N-T-L-Y DECAP THE CASES.  The oil should have made the priming compound inert, however, don’t take chances by yanking on the press handle.   Got all the cases deprimed?  Good, now let’s clean the oil from the brass.

Spray brake cleaner will flush out the WD-40

Cleaning oil from the brass can be accomplished by several means.  A spray solvent such as “Disk Brake Spray Cleaner” will quickly rinse out the oil and leave the brass dry & clean.  Alternately, the brass could be washed in a bucket of hot, soapy water, then the brass would have to be rinsed in hot, clear water and left to dry.

Chances are the old, corrosive primers that were removed were also crimped in place.  For story on dealing with crimped in primers, see article: http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2005/squeezeplay2/index.asp and article: http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2005/squeezeplay/index.asp. 

Once the primer pockets are prepped, the brass is ready for new, commercial, non-corrosive primers and loading!

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